Through the Territory

in 1856

By W. F. DeLAITTRE

INTRODUCTION:

Through the Territory

in 1856

In writing an account of this trip, I will commence at the time of my enlistment in the regular army, which event occurred on the sixth day of June in 1856, in the good old city of Boston. As to the causes leading to this event I will merely mention that, having left home at the age of seventeen with the consent of my father, I had tried everything; and last but not least, a six month's voyage before the mast to Cuba, from which I had just landed in the city aforesaid. Being disgusted with seafaring life, I made up my mind to join the army. When I entered the office and told the recruiting sergeant I wanted to enlist, he told me I looked too young, but he thought I would do.

After passing a very thorough examination by a board of three surgeons who declared me sound, I was sent in a few days with some twenty-five more to New York and from there transferred to Governor's Island. After arriving at this place we were sorted over, there being six of our number, including myself, who were thought fit to join the permanent party. No one could join this party except those who had at least a common school education, and they must be of temperate habits. The members of this party were to receive the best instructions in military tactics and those who proved the most proficient would, in the end, be sent to West Point to receive a military education; but that rambling propensity that had been a curse to so many young men had gotten control of me. On learning that a squad of recruits were to be sent to Minnesota to fill up the Tenth Regiment, a part of which was stationed at Fort Snelling, I was determined to be one of their number.

I was aware that this was no easy matter, as none who had joined the before-mentioned party could go with this squad except in one way, and that was if any of our number should chance to commit an offense, punishable by confinement in the guardhouse. They then would not be considered fit for this high-toned party and therefore would be sent into the wilds of Minnesota.

Well, the day before the boys were to start, I made up my mind by some means to get into the guardhouse, and this is how I did it---our quarters had to be kept spotlessly clean, with three spittoons in each room, it being a guardhouse offense for failure to use them. I watched my chance and broke the rule while in the presence of the officer in charge of the room. I merely received a reprimand for this, it being the first offense' but was cautioned to be careful and not forget again. Notwithstanding this caution, I soon forgot again, for which I was sent to the military prison, but was not confined. Instead, they ordered me to walk in a circle and to wear a knapsack while so doing. When the officer of the day made his rounds he asked me what 1, was there for. I told him. He called a corporal; told him to take me to my quarters to pack up, then have me report to the officers in charge of the recruits for Minnesota.

So this was what I had worked for! My dreams were to be realized. I was to see that wild region of which I had read and dreamed of for years. But had I known, could I have seen ahead, all the suffering, the long marches, suffering for water and even food, carrying timber by band when faint and weary; bad I known all I would have to endure, I think I would never again have failed to use the spittoons. Well, that night we took the train for Buffalo, N. Y., there to take a boat across Lake Erie to Detroit, Michigan.

it was while waiting on the wharf for the boat that the first act took place that was to initiate me into some of the depravity that then existed in the United States service. Several barrels of high wines lay on the wharf and while some stood around them in a circle, others, by some means, succeeded in tapping a barrel of this wine, and unknown to the officers some thirty canteens were filled. Everything was quiet until the boat left the wharf, then slowly these men

began to change, indulging in whooping, jumping and cursing. At first the few officers, who had us in charge, tried to keep order; but soon finding this impossible they went below, put a strong guard at the door, and gave up the upper decks to one of the wildest orgies it was ever my lot to see.

Out of the one hundred and sixty recruits on the boat, more than one-half of them were more like wild -beasts than men. For a while I endeavored to get several of the boys, with whom I had been on friendly terms, away from the continual fight then going on, but finding I could accomplish nothing and my own life being in danger, I thought it time for me to look out for myself. On looking around I found some boxes piled high on the deck, and climbing on the top of these I was at least safe from personal harm, unless they set fire to the boat, of which there was great danger. I will not attempt to describe the horrors of that night, for it would take an abler pen than mine to do so. With my knapsack for a hard pillow I reclined on my hard bed. Several times, after I had fallen asleep and was dreaming of the old home now so far away, some hideous outburst would rouse me and cause me to realize my awful situation.

The night at last came to an end and never did a condemned criminal receive news of pardon with greater joy than I beheld the glorious light of day slowly appearing in the east. But, as the sun rose over that inland sea and its bright rays lit the deck of the boat, what a scene for human eyes to look upon. Many were beastly drunk, some were insensible from rough usage and about fifty were so badly bruised that their own mothers, had they been there, would not have known them. By the time we arrived at Detroit they were somewhat sobered. Their comrades had washed them up and cared for those who were badly hurt, there being no surgeon along, so that when we left the boat we made a better appearance. From Detroit we took a train to Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, this town being, at the time of which I write, the end of the railroad westward. Here we went aboard the old Mississippi transport, making very slow progress up the river and stopping when necessary to cook rations and coffee.

As nearly as I can remember we were three days making the trip. It was a lovely morning when at last the old fort hove in sight, standing as it does on the bluff. It reminded one of some old time feudal castle.

When our boat drew up to the landing we were met -by officers of the fort, as well as many of the rank and file who were there no doubt to see the recruits. I could not but notice their neat appearance-hair cut close, uniforms spotlessly clean, with every button shining.

When we had disembarked and fallen in line on the beach in the sad plight many of us were in, we made a sad comparison with the boys of the fort, I assure you. But it was here at once that a change came over the spirit of our dreams, for previous to this we had experienced 'Very slack dicipline. We were now turned over to the officers of the Old Tenth. One of our number commenced to excuse -himself for some commission to the officer who had called his attention to the same, proceeding as far as "I thought .. Stop 1 ", thundered the captain, "You have no right to think, and I want you to remember that, when one of these officers speaks to you. You are not to answer back on your life". I thought these were pretty hard lines when we were denied the blessed boon of thinking; but I learned before one week at the fort that if one was disposed to do his duty to the best of his ability without grumbling he had but very little trouble with these same officers. Failing, however, to do this, in particular to keep clean, well, 'twere that a "millstone were hung about his neck and he were drowned in the depths of the sea". Before I was one week at the fort I saw an instance where one of the recruits failed to obey orders to keep himself clean and neat. A corporal and four men were detailed to take him to the river and do the job, using common scrub brushes for the purpose. You may be sure the operation never had to be repeated.

The recruits were now put into squads of about twenty under command of a non-commissioned officer, and drilled four hours each day. This, with dress parade at night, kept us pretty busy. Preparations were also being made at this time for starting on a long march. Two companies, "B" and "D", formed this command. The Wagonmaster's department of the expedition was to consist of thirty wagons, drawn by one hundred and sixty mules. These mules had been bought up in Illinois, ariving at the fort about the first of July. Not one out of the number had been haltered, and had to be broken in before starting. Anyone acquainted with these animals knows this was no easy job. Thirty teamsters had been hired and, with the aid of as many soldiers, commenced this breaking in, which took about one week.

On the Fourth of July some of the citizens of the little town of Minneapolis came over to the fort to take part in the military celebration. Mott's battery showed us how well they could handle their guns. This famous battery at that time was said to be the best in the service. I little thought on that glorious Fourth at Fort Snelling, while listening for the first time to the thunder of those guns, that five years later, on the fifth of May, 1862, on the bloody field of Williamsburg, it would be my lot to see this same battery drill, but in a different way. For while at the fort they were firing to celebrate the glorious day that gave the nation birth; at Williamsburg they were loaded to the muzzle with deadly canister shot, killing and wounding hundreds of those at every round who were trying to destroy their country.

The mules being broken at last, and everything being in readiness on or about July the twelfth, the two companies fell in, with knapsacks, canteens and haversacks, and each with a heavy rifle and forty rounds. It can be seen that we were more than well loaded, as rifle, along with saber and bayonet, weighed fourteen pounds. The rider did not mind this much, but I felt thankful, before we had gone three miles on the long tramp, that I had been raised on a farm in the back woods and always used to hard labor, for there were men in that command who were no more fit to carry such a load than that of a boy of twelve. When we were within two miles of Minneapolis, out of the one hundred and sixty that formed the two companies, but sixty were in line, so we waited until the stragglers reached us. Colonel Smith showed his kindness by ordering one of the wagons unloaded into the others and the knapsacks loaded into this resulting space. This was the last time we carried them on the march.

After being relieved of our knapsacks and taking a short rest, we fell in to resume the march, arriving in Minneapolis about noon. We crossed the old suspension bridge square, the same being at that time Main Street, and the only one of which that town could boast. To the best of my knowledge there were not over seventy building scattered on both sides of the river, they being very small and of -the cheapest kind. The side toward the fort was not then called East Minneapolis. As the citizens came out to see the

command, they made a strange appearance, being composed of equal numbers of whites and half breeds and Indians, a few of the half breeds being dressed in buckskins. I think that the crowd would make a poor comparison with the average citizen of Minneapolis today. Passing through the town, we went onward about two miles, when another short halt was made for coffee and to feed the hungry animals. Now we seemed to leave all trace of human habitation. We had lost sight of the little village that lay behind, while before us lay, stretched out as far as the eye could reach, one vast wilderness inhabited by nothing but wild beasts and still wilder men. Still, it bad a strange facination for me as I beheld it, then covered with scattered oaks, between which were open spots of verdure mixed with wild flowers of almost every hue.

For the next few days our progress was very slow, as nothing had been over this route in the way of a train excepting the twowheeled carts of trappers. So it was necessary to keep a large pioneer corps ahead to make the road passable for the heavy mule teams.

The guide and his son brought in each night a large amount of small game, such as ducks, geese and prairie chickens, but no large game was secured until we arrived at Elk River. We pitched tent on the banks of the stream about 4 o'clock P. M. on a fine day a week's journey from the fort. The rifles had been stacked in front of the company's tent, when suddenly the cry of, "Elk, elk", rang out, and looking across the stream I saw the finest animal it had ever been my luck to see. It was as large as a good sized horse and weighed -about ten hundred pounds, with horns that would measure seven feet across from tip to tip. This beautiful elk was in the act of drinking when first seen, and it proved to be his last drink; for more quickly than the time it takes to tell, twenty rifles were in the hands of as many men and discharged full at his side. It was a clear shot, but though not over twenty rods away, many of the Minner balls went wild of the mark, as many who pulled the trigger had not the skill which can be btained only by long practice; the elk was hard bit, however, for after one immense jump he fell, to all appearances dead.

Now came the fun. In camp "D" was one Miner, who was a smart young chap and he well knew this same fact. No sooner

did the elk fall that he, thinking to be ahead of all others, ran to the river and jumped in without a minute's notice, swam to the other side where the elk was lying. He drew a sheath knife with the right hand, placed a knee on the elk's neck, and seized his huge horns with his left hand. But unlike Roderick Chu was he, for "while his blade was poised on high, reeled not a soul or brain, mind or eye"; this blow never fell, for while in the act of striking, the elk suddenly came back to life, and as he raised himself up he gave his head one fearful toss, and it appeared to be for several seconds that Miner was in mid-air. After turning several revolutions endwise he landed in a bunch of hazel brush about fifteen feet from where he started. In the meantime the elk gained his feet and started at a fair pace up stream, but the boys bad no notion of losing that fine meat, so they opened fire once more and continued to send lead into that animal until he went down for the second ,and last time. By this time Minerhad pulled himself together, picked up his hat, and with the laughter of his comrades still ringing in his cars, he was soon in the position to again make an attempt to cut the elk's throat, which he succeeded in doing.

A rope was then thrown across the stream, made fast to the animal's horns, and willing hands were in plenty to tote the prized elk back to our camp.

By this time the guide and boy arrived in camp and took charge of the flaying.

The guide thought that this elk would weigh about ten hundred pounds, and as for quality I must say I never tasted better.

After leaving Elk River our route was to the Old Crow Wing Agency. Our progress was slow, owing to the soft condition of the ground over which we traveled. It was necessary to keep a strong pioneer ahead in order to make the road passable. In some wet localities we were detained one or two days, having to cut brush and carry it before the team could pass over. The country of which I am writing must have been a great deal wetter in those days than it is now. We consumed about a week going from Elk River to the Mississippi at a point somewhere near where St. Cloud is now situated. We crossed here by constructing a ferry, using four pontoon sheet iron wagon bodies, which were carried in the train for that purpose. These four wagon bodies were fastened together; then joists, which were carried along to use in this way, were laid on, thus making a good ferry boat.

We stopped one day at Crow Wing Agency to rest and found only a few log shanties. The day we arrived here I was on rear guard and consequently behind the last wagon. When within about one-half mile from the agency we found the trail on each side lined with a motley crowd of Indians of both sexes and all ages, many of them almost in a nude state and making the most hideous noises imaginable. In fact, they badly frightened the mules as they passed through. Not thinking of any danger of being molested by them, the rear guard had placed the rifles in the rear wagons to save carrying them, and our attention being taken up with this wild crew we had allowed ourselves to fall back several rods behind.

About this time, thinking we were unarmed, they commenced throwing rocks as thickly as hail, several of us being hit at the first volley, but not badly hurt. We made quick time to that wagon, seized our guns and presented them. But quick as we were the Indians were quicker, for when we had turned not one of them was to be seen. They had vanished as quickly and completely as did Roderick Dhu's clan from the eyes of King James.

Arriving at the agency we found things in a bad way in general. The Indians had been paid off a few days before, had ,obtained some cheap whiskey and had been having a great fight. Some five or six had cuts from sheath knives and our physician's services were immediately called into requisition to attend to their wounds. Some of us, myself among the number, went into a wigwam while he was performing the operations. One in particular had several bad cuts on his arm and hand which, without changing his countenance, he allowed the doctor to sew up. Then when the operation was performed he told the doctor, through the guide who ,acted as an interpreter, that he must surely be a very brave man to sew up such dreadful cuts.

The few huts at this Agency were the first marks of civilization we had seen since leaving Minneapolis. From here our route lay toward Otter Trail Lake, which place we were about two weeks in reaching. The scenery around this lake was the most picturesque and beautiful of any I have ever seen. It was almost impossible to believe that the trees, with their wide-spreading and even tops had

not been placed there by the hand of man. Wild flowers of almost every hue filled the air with their fragrance, the whole forming an appropriate setting for the numerous lakes which dotted the country, many of which were alive with wild ducks and geese. Prairie chickens also abounded. This part of our state since has been well named the park region. There being so many wild ducks in the lakes we were now passing, the boys longed to shoot some of them. But the rifle balls would not do for the purpose, and one of the comrades invented a way to make shot. He took the balls out of the cartridges, then pounded them flat to about one-eighth of an inch and then cut them into squares. This made a very good shot, with which we succeeded in bagging some fine birds.

Soon after leaving Otter Lake the guide informed us that we would soon enter the buffalo region, and as there were none among us who had ever seen these animals, we were now looking forward very anxiously to the time when we would strike their trail. The guide now rode his sure-footed horse out to hunt the buffalo. The horse was not only fleet of foot but was trained in buffalo hunting, and had that wonderful instinct of running across the prairie, which was full of badger holes, yet never putting a foot in one of them.

Eight days after leaving Otter Lake the march led us along the shore of a fine lake. About 3 P. M. we heard rapid firing on the opposite side of the lake, which by the sound seemed to be coming nearer. Then on the rolling prairie across the lake a sight met our eyes that once seen could never be forgotten. Some eight or ten buffalo raised over the crest of the hill, probably two miles away, but owing to the lake between it seemed much nearer. The leader was heading straight for the water with a strong steady lope, making much faster time than one would suppose, while close behind on his fancy hunter thundered the guide. We got a clearer view of the chase as they neared the lake.

The guide gained fast on the herd until be reached about its center. Suddenly, without slackening his speed, he aimed his double,barreled rifle at one of the huge animals in the center of the [herd. We saw the animal fall and heard the sharp report of the rifle as it echoed over the water. The guide now seemed to fly ahead overtaking the leader. Another report was heard and the

monstrous animal was wounded but kept racing toward the lake, while the rest turned along the shore. The wounded buffalo swam straight across to where the command was halted, the boys having one hundred and fifty rifles in readiness to receive him. The buffalo swam until he touched bottom, about thirty rods from us, then he stood still, moving his head from side to side. Capt. Gardiner of Company "B" now took a rifle from one of the men and was in the act of shooting the animal in the forehead when the doctor told him that he could not kill him by shooting him there; that the ball would not penetrate. The Captain would not believe this and shot fairly between the horns, dropping the animal at once. "There", he said, turning to his Esculapian friend. But the doctor knew what he was saying, and the animal at that moment began to move, and in a short time had regained his footing. He was finally shot and hauled out. The guide having come around the lake, on being told of the shot in the forehead, said laughingl, "Ha, no kill there".

The one which crossed the lake made fine meat the next day, and for the next six weeks we had all the choice meat we could use, in many cases taking only the choice parts and leaving the rest lay on the prairie.

Also, for the next six weeks we had nothing with which to cook but the buffalo chips we found, but they made a hot fire after we learned from the guide how to make it. A hole about a foot wide and four feet long was dug in the ground to the depth of about two feet, over which the camp kettle would set. Then the fire was started with the chips and it was astonishing how quickly we could make coffee, and even soup, in this way.

About this time we were joined on the march by an Indian trader, a well-dressed white man, well-educated, who had come into the wilds and had taken a dusky maiden to wife that he might the better make money by selling cheap whiskey and other trash to the red brethren at a very large percent of profit. He obtained a reluctant consent of the Colonel to travel with us for protection, as there were now some war parties of Sioux and Chippewas out on the prairie. He thought no doubt that he was better off with us, but as the sequel will show, be was sorry he ever saw us. Col. Smith, when giving him permission, made this condition very emphatic: that he would under no condition sell or give any intoxicating

liquors to any of the command. For some days all went well, but as there were many who helped make Hades on the boat when we crossed Lake Erie, they no doubt kept offering up on the price of the article until they overcame the scruples of the trader. One night after three or four of the boys were drunk, and as the Colonel was not the man to go back on his word, the guard was marched over to the ox cart team in the morning, and as two handed out the barrels and kegs, a third smashed the heads with an axe.

A few days after this my fine gentleman parted company with us, disgusted, and we beheld him no more.

One death occurred in Company "D", of which I will give a brief account. There were two brothers in this company by the name of Townsend, from Vermont, who came out with us from Governor's Island, and they were much liked by both officers and men. Soon after starting on the march the younger one caught a severe cold which, by constant exposure, became worse. He would not give up until compelled to by physical weakness. Many a day, when the march was harder than usual on acount of getting to a more suitable locality for camp, I have seen the elder brother carrying the gun of the sick youth in addition to his own. But soon after striking the trail of the buffalo he had to take to the ambulance, after which time he failed very fast. Our physician did all in his power for him, but he was beyond human aid. As we slowly journeyed on the way he grew worse, becoming more enfeebled day by day. The end came on a night when we were far out on the boundless prairie. The next morning a grave was dug on the lone expanse, 00 miles from the habitation of man, and -as we placed him therein with the usual military salute and beheld the grief of that lonely brother, a sympathetic cord was touched in that whole band of rough men and there was scarcely a dry eye to be seen. His name and age were given out by one of the officers and placed at the head of his grave, thusly: "Charles Townsend, Co. 'D', Tenth U. S. Regulars, aged 22 years".

About the middle of September we arrived at Pembina, where we found a few log huts, also a Catholic church or missionary station.

On the route we had built thirteen bridges in all, carrying the timber by band for this purpose. We ferried across various other streams we chanced to encounter.

A council was held soon after our arrival at Pembina, at which many chiefs were present, the guide acting as interpreter. The object of the council was, as I heard stated at the time, to try and make peace between the Sioux and Chippewas, who had for many years been carrying on a war of extermination.

After stopping for a week at this place we again turned our faces homeward. The Colonel wished to return by the way of the mouth of the Cheyenne river, but was told by the guide that if he did so he would have trouble, especially if much rain fell, as there were low swampy lands in that locality. But the Colonel did not take heed to this warning. He was determined to make this his route at the risk of all hazards.

For the first two weeks after the start was made all went well, then the fall rains came on, making the ground soft and detaining us sometimes two or three days in a Place. Finally, about the middle of October, we struck a marsh three miles in extent which we must cross. The ground was not only soft, but in many places it was covered with water to a depth of several inches. The night we reached this dreary spot I was on rear guard. Some of the teams had gotten about a mile into the swamp when they stuck fast in the mud. That was a hard night, as the guard could not leave the wagon, and consequently we had no supper. What made it still worse was the fact that a cold rain had been falling all day, wetting our clothing completely through. We got a tent out of the wagon and pitched it on the wet ground, and lying down we made ourselves as comfortable as possible, although shivering with the cold. The long night passed slowly away, as we were suffering from both -hunger and cold and were unable to obtain any slee. The cooks remembered us, however, for about 3 A. M. they came back to us with food and coffee, which was highly appreciated.

No description I could give would be sufficient to tell our hardships for the next three weeks, as we were just that long in crossing that swamp. On many mornings before we got through the swamp the ice had formed as thick as window glass. Through this we had to wade and haul those wagons by hand, as the mules would sink the moment they stepped on the marsh. One dry spot of about an acre in extent, like an oasis in the desert, afforded

us the only spot we could find on which it was possible to camp, and even this sanctuary afforded us nothing with which to build a fire, excepting a few dried elders and other brush.

After getting through "The Slough of Despond", as we named it, we were in hopes the worst of our troubles were over, but we soon found that we were sorely mistaken.

It now being near the first of November, the feed for the animals became so poor that it was practically worthless. Soon after this we had a little snow ' with quite cold weather. It then became necessary for the teamsters to go where the grass was tall and thick and with their knives cut grass for the teams. The poor animals became weak on this fare and some died almost daily. Many of the wagons were left on the way, and to make it worse our rations began to run so short that the Colonel found it necessary to cut us down to one-half on our daily allowance, and as we had had little enough before, we now suffered all the pangs of hunger.

A courier was sent ahead to the fort for a relief train to start to meet us, but this gave us little encouragement as our progress was by now very slow. In those trying days we often thought of the fine meat that was wasted while in the buffalo region, and if we could have only had some of it to stop those cravings of hunger we would have highly appreciated it.

I think it was the middle of November when the small train met us with the much needed food for men and beasts.

After this we made better time and on December the sixth the little village of Minneapolis again hove in sight and it was greeted with three cheers. I think we were about as hard a looking lot of men as Minneapolis ever saw before or since. No two of us were dressed alike. Many had no other covering for their feet than the moccasins made of the shanks of the buffalo, and our clothes were so soiled and torn that it could hardly be determined out of what material they were made. Our hair had gotten so long it floated in the breeze, not having been cut since leaving the fort, and all together we were a sorry looking lot. At sunset on December the sixth, we once more caught sight of the old fort, and so glad were the boys to catch a glimpse of it that three more cheers were given.

The kind old Colonel excused all of us from duty for a week, new clothing was drawn, and as soap and water and a will can work wonders, the boys were soon as neat as ever.

We were now paid six months' wages. As soon as I could obtain a pass I went to St. Paul and made application at once, through a lawyer of that town, for my discharge on the grounds of being a minor. About the middle of March, my father's deposition having been received as to my age, a writ was served on Colonel Smith to appear with me at St. Paul; he to act as counsel in behalf of the U. S. government. Well, in short, I received my discharge in St. Paul.

One little incident I will mention in regard to one of my comrades by the name of Addison Buck of Dover, Maine. He was a young man of fine appearance, besides having a fine education. He struck a man in his native town for insulting his sister, and as it was feared at the time the blow would prove fatal, Buck, to avoid arrest, enlisted and was sent west to the Tenth Regiment.

When I got my discharge and bid the boys goodby, I little thought where I was to meet Buck again. In 1862 on the Potomac River I saw him again, he being at this time quartermaster of the Sixth Maine Volunteers and I a private in the Seventh. He acted the gentleman he was, and told me if I would get transferred to his regiment he would do all he could for me. I thanked him, but told him I would not leave the boys with whom 1 marched out of the little town of Holton, to the tune of "The Girl I Left Behind".